Welcome to From Molecule to Mist! This site is where I dive into the Science behind the ingredients used in MAC Fix+ and attempt to reformualte
Water\Aqua\Eau,
Glycerin,
Butylene Glycol,
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract,
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract,
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract,
Tocopheryl Acetate,
Caffeine,
Panthenol,
Arginine,
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,
PPG-26-Buteth-26,
Fragrance (Parfum),
Disodium Edta,
Phenoxyethanol ILN33369
Water\Aqua\Eau,
100% Pure Glycerin,
99% Butylene Glycol,
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract,
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Leaf Extract,
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Blossum Extract,
Caffeine,
D-Panthenol(ProVitamin B5)75% Solution,
L-Arginine,
Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,
Disodium EDTA,
Optiphen Plus,
Hyaluronic Acid (low molecular weight),
Lavender Distilled Essenttial Oil,
The full ingredients list contains trace amounts of caprylyl glycol, sorbic acid, and phenoxyethanol; These are make up the preservative components of Optiphen Plus. The formula also includes trace amounts of Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate within the green tea extract and more trace amounts of phenoxyethanol within the cucumber, and chamomile extracts.
How I prepared my formula:
I cross referanced about 10 different formulation sheets with full instruction, prcentages, and contained similar ingredients or having some of the same ingredients as my baseline ingredient list.
There also happened to be a whole write up and youtube video where someone else also reformulated the MAC Fix+ spray and So i used that as my main referance point and i posted her video in my project inspiration page.
I did some research and decided on the preservative I wanted to use, yet somehow i missed that the pH would become a vital component in my formulation.
I used a bit of my own knowledge of trendning ingredients for the addition of hyaluronic acid, as it is a chemical that I know is safe and bennifitial for the skin, and its also well known so when people hear the ingredient name it can be comforting to be familiar especially when this is something that goes on your face and many of us have alergies and skin sensitivities.
I also used the instructions and recomended usage percentages that came from the ingredient distributers i purchased my chemicals from.
Sanitize all glass ware and tools:
Boil all non plastics such as glass where in DI water; let items that cannot be boiled such as spray bottle nozzles and pumps in a clean bowl containing high percentage Isopropyl Alcohol and let soak while you sanitize the rest of your equipment.
Soak boiled materials for 15-30 minutes in 70-90% Isopropyl Alcohol
Place in a clean location where dust and debris will not be able to contaminate
Place standing up right and allow to air-dry until use (The higher the alcohol content, the faster the evaporation time. Plan accordingly.)
Hydrate Hyaluronic Acid Solution
In a clean 150-250 mL beaker, combine 100 mL Vapor-Distilled Pure Water and 3 g iFEiER Low Molecular Weight (LMW) Hyaluronic Acid (HA) powder (anhydrous).
Attempt to stir as much as possible. This will initiate the dispersion process.
Turn on magnetic stir plate to your highest comfortability.
Cover beaker with something like plastic wrap so that particles do not get in solution.
You can either let the stirrer continue throughout the night or turn off and let sit.
Check in the morning that all has gone well, you should have a clear, slightly viscous solution. (LMW HA will not turn into a gel, but remain liquid.)
Phase A – Water Phase
In a sanitized 1000 mL beaker, add vapor distilled water (782.62 g). Set aside about 300 mL
Add disodium EDTA (1.03 g) and stir using magnetic stirrer for greatest efficiency. Stir until fully dissolved and solution is clear.
Next, add butylene glycol (30.86 g) and glycerin (19.73 g) and thoroughly mix until a homogenous mixture is obtained.
Set aside with plastic wrap or other mechanism to protect from contaminants.
Phase B – Heated Water Phase
In a separate beaker, gently warm 60 mL water (≤ 60 °C).
Once comfortable temperature is reached, Turn heat off and turn on magnetic stir bar.
Dissolve caffeine (3.02 g) completely (Solution should be visibly clear).
Set aside and allow to cool back to room temperature or at the least, ≤ 40 °C
Add the dissolved caffeine solution into the Phase A portion while continuously stirring.
Phase C – Actives & Botanical Extracts
On a low to medium stir setting, add cucumber extract (27.71 g), chamomile leaf extract (23.50 g), and chamomile flower extract (21.59 g) directly to the main batch.
Add panthenol (17.52 g) and mix until a homogenous mixture has been obtained
Add LMW Hyaluronic acid 3% solution. I used 66.18 g and slowly combined while stirring.
Phase D – Solubilize
Add PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (4.15 g) into the bulk batch and stir until clear and uniform (this can take a little while and the beaker may need to have the sides scraped).
Phase E – pH check
Using a pH meter ( I used a meter with a 0.01 precision), Check the pH of current mixture. (Mine was right at 5.3, perfect for adding preservative Optiphen Plus.
Phase F – Preservative
Add Optiphen Plus (10.0 g). Mix until fully homogenous.
Check pH again (my pH dropped down to 4.40)
Phase G- pH Adjustment
First off create stock solutions of pH adjusters, I mixed a 10% Citric Acid Stock Solution and a 10% L-Arginine Stock Solution separately.
With a pipet, Slowly add L-arginine if the mixture needs the pH to be raised. This should be added drop by drop while monitoring the pH and while stirring, giving time between drops to allow proper mixing and accurate pH readings. I ended up using 8.70 g of my 10% solution which raised the pH to 5.60. This is not a bad pH however its still a bit higher then my target pH.
To lower the pH I slowly added citric acid solution drop by drop carefully monitoring the pH. I ended up using 5 drops, of the pre-made 10% citric acid stock. I was able to safeley obtain a pH reading of 5.20. which was my goal.
Now that the solution is preserved and pH balanced I monitored the pH for another 24 hours to ensure there were no changes.
The smell from the preservative component Phenoxyethanol was not ideal and so I chose to add an extra phase to fragrance the mixture on day 2 of formulation.
Phase G – Emulsification & Fragrance
In a small beaker, pre-mix PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (7.14 g) with lavender oil (3.05 g) until uniform.
Slowly add this mixture into the main mixture, maintaining a consistent stirring speed ( I like a medium to high setting). Completely mix and obtain a homogeneously solubilized, clear, final product.
Final Assessment and Packaging
Check pH again ( mine only jumped from a 5.20 to a 5.23, still in an ideal pH range for the mixture goals)
Using a small sanitized glass funnel, package final product into sterilized spray bottles (this task should be completed during the pre-lab set up or the 1st night of formulation while the mixture is being monitored for pH changes; Boil glass bottles and soak in isopropyl alcohol, spray alcohol through the spray tops and allow everything to fully evaporate).
Use a glass stir rod and decant the mixture if no funnels are available.
Label with batch number, date.
Place in refrigerator until distribution to extend shelf life.